october 28, 2001
Right, I didn't mention where my next stop would be. As of 4 this afternoon, I am now in Hanoi, Vietnam - what feels like the motorcycle capital of the world.
posted by tina 10/28/2001 01:04:15 PM
october 26, 2001
Is this early stage culture shock or have I changed so much in two years? Hong Kong isn't how I remember it. The first days after I arrived, I felt starry eyed again. The people! The lights! The noise! Then suddenly it overwhelmed me. I was sitting on the Kowloon side of the harbour and I felt something pressing down on my chest. For a few moments, I had real trouble breathing and, quite suddenly, I fell out of love with the city. That night, all I could think about was the pollution and the haze, the heat, the lack of breathing space and places to step outside of the motion of the city, the too fast movement everywhere, and the crushing masses of people. Although this has waned a bit in the two days that have since passed, I can't help but wonder whether or not this is just a passing phase of culture shock, exacerbated by seven months in a wide open place with clear skies, fresh air, and room to move. Or have I changed, my memories jarring against this reality around me? I remember Hong Kong at the tail end of a four month trip to China, a trip during which I was continually learning and almost always excited by where I was. This time, I'm nine and a half months into a trip that is making less sense as I ramble on.
Increasingly, I realize that this may have more to do with the way expectation and reality clash, particularly when it comes to travel. In conversations with others and various e-mail discussions, I have come to the conclusion that a large part of the experience of travel (for me anyhow) is wrapped up in the planning, dreaming and imagining. Equally important is the aftermath of return and all the ways of remembering people and places - even the bad turns into good. Expectation clashing with reality is something that most people probably understand implicitly. I can think of dozens of examples where this occurs in everyday life. The problem with this is that even when I am aware of this, it is difficult to let go of what I want and/or expect.
Within this context, I have been reflecting upon my trip to Australia. First of all, I should explain that I really did enjoy my time there. However, I also need to admit that there have been things about which I have not been entirely honest. I made plans to travel to Australia after my second year of university - four years ago - and what I wanted and expected then are removed from the person that I am now. A friend of mine in Sydney actually asked me why I came to Australia in the first place, particularly after I had related to him my traveling experience around the country. I suddenly realized that I didn't have an answer for him; I couldn't remember anymore. I've been thinking about this over the past couple of weeks and, sifting through it all, I now realize an important aspect of my motivation for traveling to Australia; it's not something that I particularly want to state explicitly here. What I can say is that one of the original, quietly insidious, reasons I chose Australia was something I'm a bit embarassed to admit. Once the idea of Australia was in my head though, I refused to let it go and that's how, four years later, I ended up working and traveling there for seven months. Who I was four years ago unconsciously created expectations that inevitably led to a certain amount of disappointment when carried out.
So, yes, I guess I can say that I was a bit disappointed with my trip to Australia. Personal reasons for visiting were unfulfilled (or maybe they weren't things that needed to be fulfilled by the time I got there) and, instead, I relied primarily on absorbing the physical beauty of the country. I did enjoy the places I visited and the people I met and I have every intention of returning, but long-term travel in Australia rendered many of the last places (not people!) I visited as rather bland. Months of viewing beautiful landscapes blended places together until I couldn't care less about another rainforest, another gorge, another mountain, another gorgeous beach (although I never did get tired of the birdlife and that wombat at the end was bloody great). Australia needs to be taken in small doses and, when I return, that's exactly how I will do it.
I didn't really expect this to turn into a reflection on my trip to Australia. Didn't I start with some kind of statement on Hong Kong? And doesn't this just sound way too analytical? Shouldn't I have better things to do with my time here in Hong Kong? Yes.
posted by tina 10/26/2001 07:12:26 PM
october 23, 2001
I forgot about Hong Kong. I was so busy thinking about leaving Australia and just getting here, that I forgot what to expect. What I remembered of Hong Kong were the tall buildings of the central business area. However, this is only a small, albeit important, part of Hong Kong. Right away, I realized I had forgotten about the mad crashing rush of people everywhere. I forgot about that smell that sometimes smacks you straight in the face when walking around at ground level. I forgot about the waves of double decker buses screaming down upon you as you cross the road. I forgot about the lights - massive neon flickering. I forgot about what has to be the most spectacular city skyline in the world viewed from Kowloon. I forgot about the heat and humidity (30 degrees when I touched down yesterday). I also was quickly reminded of just how bad my Cantonese is.
But, damn, am I ever glad to be back.
posted by tina 10/23/2001 12:40:57 PM
october 20, 2001
"But who is Osama bin Laden really? Let me rephrase that. What is Osama bin Laden? He's America's family secret. He is the American president's dark doppelganger."
Arundhati Roy is really good. Another essay about another topic entirely.
posted by tina 10/20/2001 03:45:59 PM
october 19, 2001
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A few more photos, poorly scanned. The first is a pretty obvious landmark here in Sydney; the second is of Michael and Co. at Wilson's Promontory two weeks ago; and the third is me in my not claustrophobic tent on the morning of naked photos.
posted by tina 10/19/2001 05:44:25 PM
october 17, 2001
Okay, yes, Sydney is beautiful. Every day they forecast clouds and showers and every day I open up the curtains and the sky is brilliant blue with clear sunshine. Three days running, I have been swimming in the North Sydney Olympic Pool, the most perfect pool known to humankind. In the mornings, I share a lane with one other person and enjoy the feel of sun warming the top layer of water. Three days in the pool and the sun has reaffirmed my mad criss cross of tan lines, the result of two swimsuits, one for training and one for messing around at the beach. Some things make me really sad about leaving Australia. It's sunny here every day.
posted by tina 10/17/2001 08:01:00 PM
october 14, 2001
Just left two weeks of Melbourne behind me, a city offering familiarity in its diversity, people, and the rain that I had seen little of over the previous three months.
Melbourne notes:
A hike in the rain at Wilson's Prom.
Smacking a wombat on the ass.
A cat sleeping on my chest at night.
More bookstores than I can name and mini pizzas at Victoria Market.
Long delicious clean-sheet comfortable-bed mornings.
Reading in the sun and modern dancing on a trampoline.
Incidentally, I sold my car in Melbourne to two worthy Canadian boys. There were some less than traumatic hassles. However, the lesson learned: owning a car is expensive and I will be unlikely to repeat the exercise at any time in the near future.
Last night, I endured a long overnight bus journey with the foulest bus driver imaginable. Arrival in Canberra at 6AM, a city that appeared cold, wet, and thoroughly uninspiring so I hitched back to Sydney with a friend. Now, back in Sydney again, a city where I feel comfortable after having lived here for three months but which still feels woefully unfamiliar. At the same time, it does feel somewhat as if I have returned home after a period of absence finding small details changed - buildings completed, new stores in odd places.
Ask me where I will be in eight days and I will tell you Hong Kong.
posted by tina 10/14/2001 04:34:21 PM